The rose, often referred to as the queen of flowers, is an integral part of European garden culture. She has a high symbolic power – even in ancient times, she stood for love, among other things. Basically, a distinction is made between wild roses and cultivated roses. Wild roses are untreated in breeding, have no filled flowers and form rose hips. They provide bees and bumblebees with sufficient food. Cultivated roses are the result of professional crossing and refinement. If you choose the right location and invest a little time in care and editing, you have a magnificent, often wonderful fragrant plant in your garden.
The right location and ideal soil conditions
For all roses applies: They need a sunny and airy location, which protects against fungal diseases. For this reason, it is advisable never to pour directly over the leaves, as otherwise easily fungal spores settle on it. Anyone who pours in the blazing sun also risks the leaves burning. Early in the morning the roses tolerate the stale, in the best case lukewarm water best. Cast directly in the root area. Important: avoid waterlogging. Accordingly, the garden soil should be permeable to water, deep, humic and, best of all, loamy-sandy.
When planting, place the finishing area low enough
Best planting time is in autumn, even for bare root roses. When planting cultivated roses, make sure that the finishing point (pronounced thickening of the root neck from which the noble shoot grows) is at least five centimeters deep in the soil. The planting hole should be so deep that the roots are not kinked. Water the rose extensively before planting. In the planting hole, give some ripe compost or horn shavings, so the plant is supplied with nutrients. After planting, water the rose vigorously and in the autumn then directly pile it about 15 centimeters high with soil. This protects against wind and frost. Remove the mound in the spring.
This is what matters when pruning roses
The most important time for the pruning is the spring, the extent depends on the rose species. Even in summer, another pruning of some roses may make sense.
Fertilize roses properly
As a rule of thumb: A strong pruning promotes a strong sprouting – a weak pruning a weak sprouting. It always cuts over an outward eye (shoot). Only at these eyes new shoots are formed, because only there run the supply lanes of the plant. If you remove these, the stalk is no longer supplied, it creates deadwood. The correct interface is therefore half an inch above the eye.
Typical Rosen disease: Infestation by star soot
Position the rose scissors at a slight angle and cut off the shoot with one movement. The oblique cut guarantees that pouring and rainwater is led away from the eye and there is no breeding ground for pathogens. Always remove cut shoots and fallen leaves immediately and throw them in the trash and not on the compost. So, rose lovers can be sure that no fungal spores or other pathogens enter the natural garden cycle. It is also important to use clean tools so that no pathogens are transmitted to other plants. Always disinfect the scissors, for example with cleaning fluid or a small burner.
Fight down powdery mildew and infestation by leaf trash wasp
Roses should be fertilized twice a year. It starts – depending on the weather – around the middle of March, when the plant expands again. Here organic fertilizer (consisting of plant or animal ingredients) such as mature compost and horn shavings is suitable. This is gradually absorbed by the soil and supplies the plants for a longer period of time. It is important that the fertilizer contains more potassium than nitrogen. A second fertilization should be done in June after the main flowering. Fertilization is not recommended later in the year because the new shoots can not mature and freeze until winter.
Rose cicada sucks leaf green out
Black spots on yellow leaves point to the star soot in the rose. In heavy infestation, the leaves must be meticulously removed and disposed of with household waste. Humid conditions favor the spread of the fungus, because after about seven hours on the wet leaves, the spores start to germinate. When controlling with chemical pesticides (fungicides) pay close attention in every case to the manufacturer's instructions. Preventing helps a purely organic means – a bouillon of field horsetail, with which the roses are sprayed in the spring and summer.
Often, roses are also attacked by powdery mildew. It is also important to prevent the disease by choosing an optimal location or to fight the fungus with natural remedies such as milk. If the leaves of the rose have turned, they probably have an infection by the rose leaf wasp.